letterboxes

Letter boxes should be considered as an opening which can be used by the criminal, either to extract goods from within in close proximity to the door, commonly door keys, or to work vulnerable locking devices from the inside.  An internal cover plate offers additional security, as does a letter basket, though you might wish to consider removing the bottom, allowing the post to fall to the floor and thus preventing theft of the post.

A rim latch (Yale type) on its own is not sufficient. The door should also be fitted preferably with a 5 lever mortice deadlock, though some insurance companies will accept a rim automatic deadlock; both must be to British Standard 3621 or the equivalent European Standard EN12209.  Quality locks are only as strong as the doors and frames to which they are attached. Ensure that the frame is sound and the door suitable for external use; for instance, a wooden hollow core door would not be suitable.  Doors with glazed panels are inherently less secure than solid doors, hence the need for a deadlock. Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass panels with laminated glass - two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate - as they offer much greater resistance to attack.

For added safety and security fit a spy hole and door chain or limiter. These will enable you to deal with callers to your front door whilst retaining a level of security. 
(uPVC front doors are generally unsuitable for retro-fit security devices. Not only is the material not strong enough to support devices fitted with steel screws unless secured into the internal metal framework, but such changes to the original design may invalidate an existing warranty or possibly damage the integral locking assembly. If in doubt, consult the installer/manufacturer. Modern designs will usually incorporate deadlock shoot bolts or a multi-point locking system, both throwing a number of bolts from the door into the frame. Under these circumstances there will not normally be any need for additional devices.)

Advice on front door security while the house is occupied will vary, depending on whom you speak to. Fire Safety Officers will advise that, for safety reasons, the mortice deadbolt should not be engaged when the house is occupied, as locating and engaging the key can cause unnecessary delay in escaping from the scene of a fire. Crime Prevention Officers may suggest that a rim latch on its own is insufficient in providing adequate security and that engaging the lock would increase this, as well as the safety of young children in preventing them from wandering. Clearly these are issues which need to be considered. If you feel fire safety is the priority, additional security can be obtained by fitting draw bolts to the top and bottom of the door.

The door should be fitted with a 5 lever 2 bolt mortice sash lock halfway up the door, (a deadlock with a handle for convenience). Unlike front doors, many insurance companies do not specify that they should be to British Standard 3621 or equivalent European Standard EN 12209, though the use of this standard of lock is recommended.  The sash lock should be supplemented by mortice rack or surface-mounted locking bolts top and bottom. They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure.  Any glass panels should be laminated and fitted from the inside to prevent the putty or beading being removed. Grilles could also be fitted to the inside of the panels.

Also known as French windows, they are intrinsically less secure than single leaf doors, however, this need not be the case provided that suitable security measures are taken.  Both doors should be fitted with mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted within the door and operated internally by a threaded key). They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure. Alternatively, use surface-mounted locking bolts (push to lock, key to open). Whichever type you use, fit top and bottom to provide rigidity.  If the style of door is capable of it, a mortice sash lock can be fitted for extra security (rebate sets may also be required).   As most French Doors are outward opening, the addition of hinge bolts is also recommended.  Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass panels with laminated glass - two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate - as they offer much greater resistance to attack.

Entry through a patio door is a common means of entry and therefore, unless the doors are fitted with a multi-locking system, it is best to fit extra locks. These are fitted on the bottom fixed frame pushing through to the sliding frame in the centre and on the side frame at the opening point no lower than a third of the way from the top of the door. Most such locks are push to lock and key to open and are therefore easy to use.   A dual screw can be fitted between both frames but it is more awkward to use, so there can be a tendency to leave it unlocked, thus defeating the object. An alternative would be to fit long-throw bolts top and bottom of the opening door.  Some patio doors can be lifted off their track, therefore anti-lift devices are recommeded.

Providing the front door is less than 4.5 metres above ground level the advice given in the FRONT DOOR SECURITY section is applicable. However, in those situations where this is not the case, i.e., most typically flats two floors or more above ground level, the level of security is dictated, to a degree, by statutory fire regulations. Their basis is that the Fire Brigade should not be hindered unreasonably in its job of rescuing trapped occupants.  These regulations prohibit the fitting of a locking device on the front/final exit door which, if operated, requires a key release to open it from the inside. This would exclude the use of standard mortice deadlocks if they can be operated from the inside. They specify that exit from the flat is achieved by the operation of a single action release, opening being accomplished by means of a handle or thumb turn.

All crime prevention advice is based on the deterrent and delaying value of the various security devices which can be installed. Locks on doors and windows certainly provide the main thrust of the advice, but in themselves they are only part of a complete security package.  All single-glazed areas on both the ground floor and other accessible areas can be vulnerable to attack. After all, plain glass is easily breakable. Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass with laminated glass, two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate. This is far more difficult to break through as it will not shatter and will therefore delay any attempt at forced entry, a valuable deterrent.  Alternatively, you can place a plastic glazing film over the glazed area to prevent the glass from shattering, though the clarity of the glass will be reduced.  When replacing glass in wooden windows use a glazing mastic to bond it to the frame, as it is far tougher than putty.  Leaded windows are particularly susceptible in that they offer little resistance to attack. Lead is a soft material with poor tensile strength. To protect them you can install secondary glazing, or, alternatively, fit metal grilles or bars. Such measures can detract from the overall look of your windows, but it is important to be aware of their vulnerability.

bogus callers

Not all burglars break into homes - some will try to trick or con their way in. They are known as bogus callers and will pretend to be on official business from respectable concerns such Gas, Electricity and Water - or the Council. They may claim to be tradesmen or workmen calling to carry out urgent repairs.  Bogus callers succeed because they sound believable, so don't be fooled. Make sure in your own mind that they are whom they claim to be by following these simple steps:

Think before you open the door - use your chain and spy hole or look out of the window to see if you recognise them

Ask callers for proof of identity – many genuine tradesmen carry an identification card with their photograph on. Check this carefully. If you are unsure, telephone the company the caller claims to represent but remember get the number from a phone book, not from paperwork they may give you

Passwork Identification System - the Utilities companies offer this system. Any caller from one of these companies should be able to give a pre-arranged password as additional proof of identity.

Distraction - beware of callers who attempt to distract you by claiming that they have seen something untoward in your rear garden or somewhere which may encourage you to leave your house - they may have an accomplice waiting to slip into your property

If you are not convinced of the identity of the caller - don’t let them in. Ask the caller to come back later and arrange for a friend, relative or neighbour to be present on their return or ask the caller to contact this person

Treat every stranger with caution - if you are still worried, dial 999 immediately and ask for the police.

LIGHTING - EXTERIOR

Lighting can be a useful addition to security, either switched manually or automatically operated. Lighting does have its limitations - burglaries often take place during daylight hours; if the light is activated, someone has to notice it - and take action. Lighting should be seen as an aid, but on its own it is not sufficient to deter a burglar.  The most common form of lighting is passive infra-red which is activated when someone comes into its field of vision. The light can be set to stay on for a set time and then it will re-set if the cause of its activation is no longer present. A passive infra-red unit can activate single or multiple lights.   Lights can be useful on the approach to a front or rear door or garage, not only lighting up if someone approaches your house, but also when you approach, so that you can see if anyone is lurking in the shadows. It must be remembered though that lights can be activated by certain animals. Also, you do not want the light to be activated every time your neighbours go into their garden or when someone walks past the front of your property. However, the field of activation can be adjusted. You must also make sure that your light does not intrude into your neighbour’s windows or those of passing vehicles - light pollution can often be at the centre of many disputes.  An alternative is to fit low pressure sodium lights which are operated by a photo-electric cell. This turns the lights on at dusk and off at dawn. It is a much less obtrusive light and, although it is on all night, it can be cheaper to run than spotlights.

LIGHTING - INTERIOR

A sensible arrangement of leaving lights switched on inside the house while the house itself is unoccupied can substantially help to give the impression to a passer-by that the house is in fact occupied. It is sensible to use a downstairs room with a drawn curtain and sufficient light inside to suggest that the room is occupied. A light should not be left on solely in the hall - a thief may guess that the premises are unoccupied as it is not normal for the occupants to spend all night only in the hall!   There are many automatic devices available - simple and extremely sophisticated - that will turn lights on and off in random fashion and may even be set to control other electrical appliances such as the radio or television. Automatic switching will help to convince the casual thief that the house is occupied.
Most of the time security lighting will be all that is necessary to scare off a potential intruder. But do remember, lighting cannot work miracles. It is sensible to make sure that your physical defenses - the locks, the bars and window bolts - will resist attack. Let your neighbours know that you are out, and if you are a member of your neighbourhood watch scheme so much the better.

Alarm systems are a worthwhile investment in the protection of your home and family. Studies reveal that it is far less likely that you will become the victim of a burglary at home if you have a correctly fitted and well maintained burglar alarm. However, they should be regarded only as one element within a complete security package.  The variety of alarms and their fitting is a complex subject and we would recommend contacting a good alarms company for further details

Wooden casement

Locks should be fitted which secure the frames together in preference to locks which simply secure the handle or stay bar. Casement windows, by their very design, need to be locked by securing the window to the frame. Most casement locks are screwed to the window rather than the frame - a weaker system. There are locks which are fixed to the frame and these are probably more secure, as well as being easy to use. If the window is flush to the frame fit mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted into the window and operated internally with a key). They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure and fixed into either end of the frame. You might want to consider using door mortice bolts for a longer throw.
If you are intending to use the type of lock that screws to the window, the following test is a rough guide to help you to decide how many you will require: with the window closed, press each opening corner. If there is any movement, fit a suitable lock, such as a push lock (push to lock, key to open) at each corner on the opening side. If there is no movement, a lock fitted to the centre of the opening frame will suffice.
It is possible to secure wooden casements in the open position for purposes of ventilation, very necessary in hot weather, or child safety. These are particularly appropriate in a ground floor bedroom situation where someone wishes to sleep with the window open.
Likewise they are well suited to upper floors where windows can be locked open, allowing ventilation but, at the same time, preventing children from opening the window beyond a safe aperture. Whilst it is recognised that this type of device is designed more for safety purposes rather than security, it would be likely to alert the occupant if an attempt to force it was made. It is intended that these locks should be used only when someone is in residence. If your home is unoccupied the windows should be locked in the usual manner.

Wooden sliding sash

You cannot rely on existing central sash fasteners. Sash stops are strong and convenient to use and do not need to be removed from window when opening fully. They can be set into the top frame allowing the window to be left open about 5" for ventilation but still secure. For optimum security fit in pairs.
An alternative form of lock is the dual screw. These in effect bolt the two sashes together. An added bonus is that, in so doing, they also reduce draughts.
The beading which holds the glass in place is frequently only pinned. The window can be made more secure, either by gluing in addition to pinning or screwing the beading, if wide enough, in place.
A modern style is the 'tilt to clean' sliding sash, not only sliding up and down but also tilting inwards for cleaning by undoing two clips on top of each moving sash. These should be secured by fitting both sash stops and dual screws.

Metal

You can either secure the window or the handle to prevent opening. One of the main problems with this type of window is the narrow profile of the frame, making it difficult to fit devices.  For this reason there are locks specifically designed for this type of window. It is probably easier to secure the handle, where there is normally more room to fit the lock. Use a fanlight lock to secure the fanlight window.

Aluminum

The highest level of security fitted by the manufacturer on most aluminum windows, including coated aluminum, is a locking handle, but, whilst it would be satisfactory to most insurance standards, it is not particularly secure. This is because it is the handle which is being locked and not the window. As most handles are not of a good casting standard they have a tendency to break under pressure, or come loose from the frame.
It is possible to fit extra locks to aluminum windows, but care should be taken to ensure that there is enough metal around the window to be able to fit the lock without contacting the glass. Suitable locks designed for this purpose are available.  In the case of sliding horizontal aluminum windows, additional security can be achieved with the fitting of a key operated clamp on the bottom rail of the frame. Windows are often left open to allow the circulation of air, particularly in hot conditions. This, inevitably, reduces the level of security. By fitting a sliding window lock to the bottom rail you can restrict the slide to a few inches.
Alternatively, drilling a small hole through the bottom rail at the point at which you wish to restrict the slider and inserting an appropriate sized bolt will suffice. Additionally, to prevent the slider being lifted, fit a wooden block of a suitable depth into the track above the slider.

Louvres

Louvered windows are not as common as they used to be. In the main, this is because their inherent lack of security is well recognised. There are some measures that can be taken to make them less vulnerable, but these should be seen only as temporary, for overall, it is best to replace them at the earliest opportunity.
Some are made with the glass secured in the frame. If not, fix the glass in both frames with an epoxy resin adhesive. If the windows are sited in a vulnerable position, you may need to fit a grille or bars, though the better option would be complete replacement.

uPVC

In many cases it is not possible to retro-fit any extra locks to uPVC windows. This is because the material used is not strong enough to support a metal lock fitted with steel screws. It could also damage the window and perhaps invalidate any existing warranty.  Double glazed window locking systems should be fitted at the time of manufacture. A general rule to follow is that the handle should not be the only means of keeping the window closed. The locking system should be fitted within the framework and the handle is used as a means of throwing or engaging the internal locking system. There are locks that can be fitted to uPVC casement windows, but only if there is no integral locking system within the framework, typically where the only means of security is a locking handle.

There are two main types of locking systems:
-The first is espagnolette (multi-point) locking, which are bolts (normally 3 sets) set into the window and located into locking points in the frame when the handle is turned. The bolts should be mushroom headed so that they can engage behind the locking point, thus enabling the window to resist being forced apart from the frame.
-The second type is deadlock shoot bolts which locate into the frame at both opening side corners. There is also a deadlock which secures the opening side of the window at the handle. The window can also be fitted with high security friction hinges which locate into the frame on the hinge side.  For additional strength sections of hardened aluminum or galvanised steel reinforcements should be fitted at the time of manufacture within the hollow profiles of the windows and frames, so that the locking systems can be secured through the uPVC frames into the reinforcements.  It is preferable for the windows to be fitted with internal beading to avoid the possibility of the glass being removed from the outside. There are some systems which have external beading but are secure because the glass is adhered to the frame or secured by special tamper-proof clips, but in most cases internal beading is preferable.
Lastly, if you are considering replacing your existing windows, look for the new British Standard 7950 kite mark. It has been established to set specific manufacturing standards of design and security for windows.

Leaded windows

These are not secure unless you fit secondary laminated glazing, polycarbonate sheeting, or internal grilles.